Taurus Firearms Serial Numbers

I would check it out carefully first. I wish I hadn't sold my Taurus M605 - it was a good little gun. REVOLVER CHECKOUT WARNING: Most of these tests require violation of the 'finger off trigger' rule. Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and personally making sure the gun is unloaded as you begin handling it.

Bring a small, high-powered LED flashlight. Feeler gauges if needed; at a minimum, bring a.002',.004' and.006'. No dry firing is required or desired at any point. Cylinder play With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action.

Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down. Keep holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in 'full lockup' - keep it there for this and most other tests.) Check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is bad.

A little side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should 'want' to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a 'welded to the frame' feeling. Cylinder gap Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source.

SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your poop.

When I got an invite to the factory at Taurus Firearms, I thought I had just scored a free trip to Brazil! But little did I know, Taurus makes many of their guns right here in the USA, near my stomping grounds in Miami. Those of us who were invited from the gun media family got to see how they make. The Taurus Model Number Lookup System will help you find detailed information about your Taurus Gun. Enter the serial number (no spaces) of your firearm and click on 'Search' to identify your model. Please note that specific information may not be available, especially on older models. If your serial number does not return a result, please call Customer Service at.

It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued. Timing With the gun held in full lockup, shine a light into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. Look down the barrel to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel.

Check every cylinder. Bore Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the small flashlight to scope the bore out. Check each cylinder bore (chamber) with the light coming in from the front of each hole, you looking in from the back. Trigger To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of the hammer to 'catch' it with the off hand, especially if it's a 'firing pin on the hammer' type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's the best solution. SA triggers (or a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel 'like a glass rod breaking'.

A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammer block safety. Detecting Bad Gunsmithing Cock it, grab the hammer and 'wiggle it around' a bit. Give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and watch your muzzle direction. You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. Check for too-light springs. Replacement factory or Wolff springs are cheap both to buy and have installed. Quick Reminders: Full lockup Cylinder play Cylinder gap Alignment Bore and chambers Let off.

Fixed notch or adjustable rear sight? Ridges on the cylinder fluting?